Day 12 - Netzach - Mimi
We awoke at what felt like the crack of dawn for some, but was in fact 6.30 and with the thought of the upcoming breakfast, the task of getting dressed quickly was rather simple. The 4 different buffets definitely lived up to our expectations, with the array of food ranging from pastries to salads, but of course I headed straight towards the cheeses. As breakfast came to an end we could all feel our skirts feel slightly more snug.
We set off to tefillah, which we had the privilege of saying while looking out onto the magnificent Kineret. What better place is there to appreciate our extremely privileged circumstances through song, than in this incredible country while surrounded by breathtaking scenery? Once we finished a meaningful Rosh Chodesh tefillah, all the girls boarded the bus and for the first time we were not accompanied by the pleasant smell of teenage boys.
After an hour of driving we reached the Holy City of Tsfat and upon departing the bus we could already feel the serenity of the place. Our tour guide, Rabbi Baruch, introduced us to the history of Tsfat by touching on the correlation between kaballah and physics. He spoke of Rabbis in Tsfat hundreds of years ago who explained things about the different realms of multiple universes that physicists are only discovering today. This definitely appealed to the scientists amongst us, as kaballah and spiritual ideas often do not go hand in hand with rational concepts.
We walked along the cobblestone streets while admiring the sapphire doors and gorgeous range of unique mezuza designs, before arriving in a large courtyard. It was so special standing in the exact spot where Gideon led 100 men in blowing horns and smashing pitchers before conquering that very city in biblical times. Thousands of years later, the Israeli army used the same technique of creating a noise which did not represent their number before entering Tsfat. When the IDF was short of arms in 1948, they shot the Davidkah, which doesn’t cause much damage yet makes a booming sound. Yet again, our nation was able to scare the enemy and appear victorious. We were able to see this very weapon in the exact spot it was used 71 years ago.
On the way to the mikvah, we passed through the artist colony and were overcome with complete tranquility. The combination of fresh air and sweet harmonies playing everywhere we walked, provided the authentic Tsfat experience. My favourite part was watching Miss Kaissis in her element, with her hair accessories matching the flowers in the trees.
The mikvah we visited was simply exquisite and the white setting helped us relate to the concept of purity. The aspect I connected to most was how Judaism always aims to strive for inclusion, which could be seen in this instance through the mikvah process for people with disabilities. Elisheva, a lady who works there, gave us all blessing with the most genuine sincerity, bringing up some raw emotions within the group.
After this uplifting mikvah experience, we were given the task of navigating our ways through the windy streets of Tsfat in pursuit to fill our demanding stomachs, as any gap greater than two hours between meals is simply unacceptable. What we did not yet know was that many of Tsfat’s alleyways are not accompanied by any form of identification or street signs. Although some believed the few days they had spent there in the past provided them with a knowledge of the back streets, they were soon proven incorrect and the group resorted to the help of Google maps. The students who had payed more attention in geography became apparent as others aimed to read the map upside down.
After trekking up a fair amount of stairs and using our fluent Hebrew to communicate with locals, we finally reached Jerusalem street. A few friends and I were waited on by a very friendly woman who apparently knew English. As a result of having precisely five kosher restaurants in Sydney, it was a slight struggle differentiating the difference between rose and nepolitana source, but with the help of our slightly better educated friend in this field, I was able to work my way through the menu. If you ever find yourself in Tsfat, I highly recommend Cafe Monitin, which even serves complimentary water (this is not always the case in Israel).
The bus ride back to Kfar Kinneret got us into the Shabbat mood with everyone singing along to the Israeli music. Some of us even decided to go for a pre Shabbat swim and were pleasantly surprised that it was warmer than the water at Bondi. With our new found knowledge of the mikvah ritual, we were rather suspicious when we saw a few boys bopping up and down in the water but were relieved when they came out wearing swimming costumes.
After necessary Shabbat photos in our spectacular location we were very excited to bring in our first Shabbat in Israel. During Kaballat Shabbat we all sung our hearts out and danced until our feet were sore. The whole day tied together beautifully as we sang Lecha Dodi, which was written by a Kabbalist in Tsfat. Our new understanding of this familiar prayer added a deeper layer of appreciation for the entire service.
When Rabbi David spoke about how each of us have to take something different from this unbelievable experience it left us all eager for what awaits. Shavua tov!
